Segement two, as promised (though, I admit, a bit tardy.) Filled with tales of aquatic exploits, animal encounters, natural wonders, and, of course, adventure. However, three plus weeks of solid adventuring is quite a lot to catch up on andI will attempt to do this in the most succinct way possible, so please bear with me.
3 May: Mother and daughter ecstatically reunited in Christchurch! The entire day is spent walking around the city, going to the Arts Centre Market, talking, hugging, and napping.
4 May: Drive our sexy little green car (lovingly christened Jezebel) to Tekapo and went for a plane ride over Mount Cook National Park. Circle the peak of Mount Cook (highest peak in NZ), pass over mountains and all the glaciers.
5 May: Go along the impossibly windy roads to Queenstown, walk around the city, purchased some wonderful spives (spoon + knife and used for the eating of kiwifruit) and visit Fergburger.
6 May: Drive south to the town of Manapouri where we sail across the lake on a ferry, cross a mountain in a bus, and board the ship in Doubtful Sound that is to be our evening's accommodation. We go kayaking, see little blue penguins, and sail out to the Tasman Sea to visit the NZ fur seal colony and watch the sun set. Sleeping quarters are sardine-like but wonderful all the same.
7 May: Spend a lovely morning on Doubtful Sound, then arrive back where we'd started and re-do our trip over the mountain and across Lake Manapouri. Hop back in the faithful Jezebel (that doesn't sound right) and drive up through Te Anau, up an icy and perilous mountain road (and have to wait for about half an hour because another car had gone off the road...) and back down, finally arriving in waterfall-filled Milford Sound. We board another ship and cruise along to the Tasman Sea. A pod of about seven bottlenose dolphins play in the wake at the front of our ship, little blue penguins swim by the shore, and a group of five young fur seals sleep and play for hours on the back of the ship. We spend the night in our own spacious room and sleep like babies. Seasick little babies, or at least, I did.
8 May: We wake to a beautiful clear day on Doubtful Sound and go kayaking. Arrive back on dry land (thank god), take lots of photos, go for a walk in the southern rainforest, and drive a very long and twisty road up to Wanaka. That night, Mummy sleeps and I visit to Cinema Paradiso, the movie theatre that has sofas, armchairs, and even an old car for seating.
9 May: Drive up along the West Coast, stopping for a walk in Fox Glacier to see Lake Matheson, and end up in Franz Josef. We decide to forgo a walk to the glacier itself since we'd already seen it close up from the plane in Tekapo.
10 May: Continue up the West Coast with stops in Punakaiki to see the Pancake Rocks and Greymouth for an extremely lame tour of the Montieths Brewery. Keep driving all bloody day until we reach Marahau, the gateway to Abel Tasman National Park.
11 May: Cruise along the coastline (what with my love of boats and all...) and see lots and lots of fur seals, a couple little blue penguins, and hang out with a solo bottlenose dolphin named George in the shallows of Tonga Bay. We go horse riding on the beach at low tide with a psycho-jaded American and, ignoring him, have a lovely time.
12 May: Sadly, we leave the Abel Tasman behind and drive around to Kaikoura with pit stops along the beach to watch the fur seals do their thing. Seal poo = super gross. A dolphin swim is on the agenda for the next morning.
13 May: Dolphins, it turns out, are heartbreakers. Our side trip to Kaikoura is all for nothing when the dolphins prove to be no-shows. Lovely coastline though. With heavy hearts we drive up to Picton to catch the ferry, on which I am very seasick so I have to spend the whole time outside in the freezing wind. Mummy is too kind to leave me to my own devices, so the majority of the three hours are spent huddled together in her sleep sack. Many hilarious photos are taken. We don't stop in Wellington, just keep driving north until we can drive no more. Author's note: never go to Taihape.
14 May: Onward! We pass through Tongariro National Park where we see Mount Doom, snow storms, and a double rainbow. We finally get to Rotorua and go to a Maori hangi that night, with a cultural performance and impossible heaps of food. The water is from a natural spring and tastes delicious. Later we are taken to see some Kiwis (the birds, not the fruit or the people) and I'm surprised by how big they are!
15 May: We get to Wai-o-tapu (a volcanic park) just in time for the... 10:15 geyser show? They pour biodegradable soap into the Lady Knox Geyser to make it do its thang. I want to punch the soap dispenser man in the face. But the park itself is very cool, though it seems like the devil's butt (ie: sulfur. Lots and lots of sulfur.) That afternoon we take a gondola to the top of a mountain and go luging! The evening is spent at the Polynesian Spa which feels wonderful and relaxing at the time, but unfortunately makes our bathing suits smell like farts.
16 May: Adieu to the smell of rotten eggs! We leave Rotorua and drive through "The Shire" up to Auckland. Auckland is nice, Jezebel is unwillingly returned, and we take a nap for a few hours until...
17/16 May: The 4:15 AM shuttle takes us to the airport for our flight to SAMOA! We arrive around 10 o'clock in the morning on... 16 May? International Date Line, you are a tricky bitch. Our silver Rav4 with issues is collected and we have lovely and enormous prawn sandwiches with fresh taro chips for lunch. We then go to the huge market in Apia. So much random food and coconut jewelry! Dinner is at one of the nicest places in Samoa (tuna steak with size of my head) and we crash early at our kind of lame hotel.
17 May: The day starts early, driving up the Cross Island Road to Taufua Beach Fales on the southeastern coast of the island of 'Upolu. We learn the none of the roads in Samoa are marked, and the maps that exist are completely useless. Both of these things are very helpful. But our en suite fale is lovely, the obscenely large Sunday dinner is deliciously and strange, and the beach is exquisite. The afternoon is spent snorkeling, which I had never done before. Fishies spotted: Moorish idols (think Willem Dafoe in "Finding Nemo", but without the cool voice), orangestripe triggerfish, blue starfish, sunset wrasse, surge wrasse, christmas wrasse, black and white tiny angelfish, a pufferfish! (unpuffed), a white with black stripes sea dragon, tons of parrotfish, bluestriped snapper, longnose filefish, needlefish, racoon butterflyfish, threadfin butterfly fish, and MORE!
18 May: We leave Taufua and get horribly lost, but eventually find our way to the ferry and cross over to the island of Savai'i. I, with my love of moving things, of course get seasick. Our next destination is Manase and while the beach fales are nice, the food sucks and the staff is very weird. One staff member spends twenty minutes staring at us from the doorway while we play cards. Also, no one even mentions just how loud seafront property is!
19 May: Another first- I go scuba diving and I get to fulfill my dreams of being the little mermaid. Mum gets her refresher course and I take an introductory from a hilarious Frenchman. Things are going fine until we get to the open water because 1. I am seasick and 2. I am scared shitless. However, the fabulous Fabian talks me into going through with it (though it took mucho cojones on my part too.) We saw lots of fish and I'm proud that I did it, but I could feel the currents underwater. I had to resurface five minutes early and as soon as I did I started puking or rather, feeding the fishes. And I kept puking. Canceled my second dive and snorkeled back to shore, puking the whole way. The rest of the day is spent the same way.
20 May: We switch fales and move down the street to the nice place, Le Lagoto. Our enclosed fale (with air con, thank god!!) is beyond beautiful, with nice linens and fresh flowers everywhere. Our view of the sea is paradise. I make Mum leave me to my sicky devices (still sick) and she does two more dives and sees some incredible things, which makes me happy. There's a lovely cool pool for us to soak in, which also makes me happy. Dinner is luscious and the scenery is to die for.
21 May: Last day in Samoa. We sadly leave the fale and our new friends at Dive Savai'i and drive back to the ferry. Still sick from before, I enjoy the disgustingly rolling seas and contemplate throwing myself overboard. More souvenirs are collected at the market in Apia, we have a delicious dinner while watching the sun set over the water, and have an uncomfortable nap in the stifling car until our 1:30 AM departure.
22 May: Didn't exist. See previous statement about the International Date Line.
23 May: We arrive in Auckland exhausted and disheveled, but happy to escape the oppressive heat of Samoa. The day is spent at the zoo, followed by a trip to the cinema to see "Angels & Demons".
24 May: Not too much happening. We pack, we have lunch, we head to the airport and we are a little bit sad. After such an incredible adventure though, what is there to be sad about? If you've stuck with me through that whole narrative, you understand me. I give her a hug, I give her a kiss, and I smile because I know I'll see her again.
If you just read that entire thing, I am 1. surprised that you lasted this long and 2. delighted, because that's one less person I'll have to explain this to when we meet again. If, however, you only read about the first couple days and then skipped down to the bottom... Well really, I can't say that I blame you. I'm verbose at the best of times and then when I actually have something to write about I go nuts. All I can say is, thank you very much for your interest. I can't honestly say I wish you were there, because I was quite happy to have my mother all to myself. But I can say that I sincerely hope that at some point in your life you can have an adventure like the one I had. Incredible, beautiful, and I might even say life-changing. In fact there are only two bad things about it: 1. that y'all are going to be hearing about this until I have an adventure that tops this one, and that's too bad because and 2. this particular adventure was so amazing that I'm not sure it can ever topped.
Luckily and Adventurously Yours,
*Olivia
"Life is either a great adventure or nothing." - Helen Keller
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